Playgrounds, Waterfalls and Giants

I volunteered to help clean up the playground for the local preschool that Peter (our guesthouse owner) had helped to found. Georgina and I went over and scrubbed down the slides and merry-go-round, then took a break for the best Lao lunch I’ve had yet, made by Peter’s wife Manichan. It was Lao style, too, which means using sticky rice as cutlery. Then we started work on a sun shade for one of the swing sets. Georgina and I being fairly determined types, we finished putting up the sun shade that afternoon, despite the heat and incredible sun. What a feeling of accomplishment to do something for others and not just for myself on this trip! It took a bit longer than anticipated, so we weren’t able to go to the nearby waterfall as planned. Peter offered to take us along with his kids the following day since it was a school holiday.


Luckily, Sadaf was able to join us as well – the beginning of a beautiful friendship! Peter drove us all out to Kuang Si falls. At the bottom of the park is an enclosure for rescued sun bears. We spent some time observing them, then headed to the falls.
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The lower part of the falls are quite accessible: a series of pools of a light, milky blue along with terraces and smaller falls. The shade of blue actually reminds me of the terraces and travertines of Pamukkale, Turkey. From the lower pools, it’s pretty easy to climb up to the foot of the larger falls, which are spectacular.

We decided to try to hike up to the top of the falls. I’m not great with heights (read: am terrified by heights) but I thought I’d try and then turn back if I had to. Little did I know that it wasn’t really possible to turn back! We went up the right side (when facing the falls from the bottom), which I had read was the harder path. To be honest, I’m not sure I’d have made it down that way, so it’s fortunate that we chose it to go up! There was definitely a bit of climbing involved. Georgina and Sadaf were also great, patient hiking buddies, always ready with a hand up or over as needed.

We made it to the top and realized that “hike over the top of the falls” was meant quite literally. There wasn’t a path, rather, we waded through pools at the top of the falls and looked down at the view. It was pretty incredible, and I’m proud of myself for having made it that far! We saw some little “fish” at the top that in retrospect I think might have been leeches, but we didn’t bother them and they didn’t bother us.


Then came the hike down, which towards the bottom included a flight of stairs. Of course, half of the stairs were under water, but hey! At least there were stairs!
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After the incredible hike, we took a dip in one of the equally incredibly cold pools at the bottom of the set of waterfalls. It was lovely and refreshing.

On the way back, we stopped at Peter’s friends’ place. They are creating a butterfly garden, so we saw some beautiful examples. I can only imagine what it will be like next year, when they are done putting up some of the butterfly attractors.
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Then it was a rush to the Royal Palace to be in time to see the Lao Ballet. We saw one part of a story cycle that involved giants, monkeys, and bridge building. (The monkeys were working to build a bridge, but it was disturbing the denizens of the deep. Their princess led them in undoing every night what the monkeys built during the day, until the monkey leader – or his imp, it got a bit lost in translation – worked his wiles on her and she agreed to stop.) Most of the dance was very stylized hand movements. It was very interesting, if perhaps a bit of an acquired taste for westerners (or at least for me).

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